Chicken Stock
This is a narrative recipe for the chicken stocks by Chef Todd Jasmin.
There are some handy tips to be gleened.
Ingredients
For Stock:
Chicken,
Onions,
Celery,
Carrots,
Thyme,
Bay Leaf,
Parsley,
Cheesecloth,
Egg whites (optional),
For soup:
chicken stock,
shallot,
julienned or small dice zuchini,celery, and carrots,
chopped parsley
Directions
ROCK SOUP CHICKEN STOCK
A thousand chefs…a thousand stocks.
If memory serves, I was eating paella on the Valencia coast with friends. The rice was topped with a variety of fish very simply done. Each granule of the rice (paella rice-bomba-is chewier and less creamy different from risotto rice—arborio) was perfectly al dente. More importantly each grain of the bomba had the infused flavor or the all of the individual ingredients resting on it – big gambas and sweet langostines, cigala and colorful clams, a hit of saffron, the occasional green pea for color, and little bits of chewy fish flavored chicken thighs. Unbelievably delicious.
Anyway, Pepe, the proprietor and cocinero of La Isleta, was a very forthcoming guy particularly after a few homemade sangrias. Knowing my interest in Spanish cuisine he asked if I enjoyed the meal and I replied I’d love to learn to make it.
He said, “It’s easy. Good Spanish olive oil, a good pan, good onions…fry a little bit… add the rice…fry a little bit…top with the fish…pour some caldo (clear cooking stock) and cover. It’s very simple really.”
“What do you use for caldo?”I ask
He looked away “Water or a little wine or some fish or chicken stock. You know.”
“Yeah but Pepe what do you use for caldo?”
The table went quiet. I think he was surprised that I had asked. He looked at me with a serious but amused expression.
“Oh my American friend, I‘m not going to tell you that.”
The reason for the story?
Stock is everything to cooking. Stock is the foundation not just for soups but is used to add depth and flavor to nearly every savory dish. Virtually in every instance that a savory recipe calls for water you can substitute stock.
Make it…Buy it if you must … Love it!
Unlike my friend Pepe, I’m going to tell you my chicken stock recipe.
Frankly every self respecting comprehensive cookbook in the world should have the Escoiffier recipe. Basically chicken parts are brought to a boil in cold water with a combination of onions, celery, carrots (mirapoix) and a bouquet garni (a pouch of dry thyme, bay leaf, and wrapped in leek leaf). Wikipidea says there is no generic recipe for bouquet garni but others disagree. I have had luck tying the herbs in a cheesecloth cache but some chefs feel that cheesecloth inhibits the free flowing interaction of the herbs. My basic feeling is that anything besides the classic ingredients will impart additional flavors to the stock so be careful with peppercorn or aromatics like tarragon or basil. These additions can bring wonderful results though so don’t be afraid to experiment.
For light chicken stock use only white meat. I used a single back and a package of 6 wings. Together with 2 quarts cold water bring to a simmer add 2 ribs of large chop celery and one large chop yellow onion. I don’t use carrots in my light stock because they darken the finished product and add extra sugars. Float a traditional bouquet garni and let simmer 2 hours or reduce in half. Add two cup fresh water and allow to simmer another hour.
Strain through a mesh strainer and let cool.
The fat will separate and rise to the top. If you have the luxury of refrigeration overnight you can just cut the fat off the top of the broth. If not ladle the fat off when it separates. Reheat the stock and strain again through a chinois or cheesecloth to capture the smaller filaments. For very clear stock bring again to a simmer, swirl and add 4 egg whites. The whites capture still more small protein matter. Strain again. You’re ready to go.
For dark chicken stock I used a whole roasted chicken. Seasoned with salt and pepper, roast a whole chicken in a preheated 450 degree oven for 20 minutes. Lower the temperature to 325 and allow to cook another 40 minutes or so. This should be a pretty well done bird that you can now debone for chicken salad. As for the carcass this is going into the stock pot. The difference in the two stocks begins here. Deglaze the roasting pan with water and add the liquid to the stock pot.
In a cast iron skillet blacken two yellow onions which have been halved. Don’t be afraid make ‘em good and black. Add the same ribs of celery but add two carrots as well. Drizzle olive oil and place the pan back into the oven for 45 minutes or so to roast the vegetables. This releases sugars and adds depth and richness to the stock.
After the vegetables have caramelized add them to the stock pot and cover the meat the and vegetables with 2 quarts of water. Bring to a simmer and reduce in half. Refill with a fresh quart of water and return to a simmer. Reduce by 1/3 strain. The fat will separate and rise to the top. If you have the luxury of refrigeration overnight you can just cut the fat off the top of the broth. If not ladle the fat off when it separates. Reheat the stock and strain again through a chinois or cheesecloth to capture the smaller filaments. I don’t do the egg white clarification because I’m going to use this stock with other ingredients and pure clarity in this case is not required.
However seeking pure clarity in life is a most noble application of oneself .
For perfect chicken soup bring the stock to simmer and season with salt to taste.
Cook thin egg noodles according to the package instructions. Strain and rinse with room temperature water to stop them from over cooking.
In a sauté pan melt 1 tbl of butter add 1/2 small minced shallot, and two or three thinly julienned strips of zucchini, celery, and carrots per serving. Season with white pepper and sea salt. Cook until tender.
Place the lightly cooked vegetables in each bowl. Hide them with some of the noodles and bathe them in the steaming broth. Serve with chopped flatleaf parsely and crusty bread. Are you kidding me ?? Yum!
















Patience is a virtue...















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