STEPHEN LYLE

In early April I traveled to Paris and then took the train down South with my sister to visit my father, who still lives there.

In my youth, we always ate head cheese after ballet lessons, on the train home from Cannes. This was always an effective way to keep a whole compartment for ourselves, because ballet lessons make you very hungry, and we never used utensils.

This wonderful staple of French charcuterie is made by boiling the head of a pig with aromatics, removing the meat from the bone, chopping it up, and letting it cool in its cooking juices. The whole thing sets beautifully, and is served sliced and chilled, as an appetizer.  The connotations of “head cheese” are unfair, since there is nothing particularly funky about it at all. In the original French, as "fromage de tete", it comes off as more positive and intellectual, owing also to its affinity with the nature of French thought.

My ever-helpful Parisian sister found an incredible (and award winning) version at the store of Mr. Gillles Verot.  His is particularly beefy, and a marvel of textural precision, and of seasoning. How great it is that New York chef Daniel Boulud has asked Mr. Verot to do the charcuterie at his latest bistro. Once we got down South, we bought some more from the local butcher and he was good enough to share a couple of his trade secrets with me, including his contention that the meat must be picked off the bone while it is still hot or it will lose all its flavor, and then be set to bake again for a while at a very low heat once it is in its terrine. So now you know -- for the next time you make it.

http://www.verot-charcuterie.fr/

http://www.eatdrinkordie.com/videos/20caadcfb8