Eat This Before You Die: LUNCH AT LE COMPTOIRE, ST. GERMAIN, PARIS
In early April I traveled to Paris and then took the train down South with my sister to visit my father, who still lives there.
The quest for dependable, universal meaning is over. Eternal and self-evident truth is derived from eating pig. My sister took me to Le Comptoire du relais St. Germain, a very cool bistro on the left bank, and there this fact was driven home conclusively by a wedged-shaped, crispy, boneless pig's foot.
Just past the deeply caramelized exterior, a universe of voluptuous textures dwelled, delicately held together by its own gelatin, and all flecked with parsley. One bite delivered an almost limitless depth of flavor of a transcendental richness. Nothing more was needed or could be said. All bow to the Swine.
Chef/Owner Yves Camdeborde’s mother owns a charcuterie in Pau, near the Pyrenees, and she sends him all his pork. As a graduate of the Crillon and The Tour Argent, he has cooked with the best, and it shows. I sneaked down the stairs to the small kitchen, expecting to see a sea of pimply French youths. One five-foot tall black man was cooking. I thanked him profusely and I am still basking in his remarkable smile. As chef Camdeborde says, it takes love.
Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain, 9, carrefour de l'Odéon, Paris (Vie)
Comments (4)
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Dear Frosty I can only assure you this was deserving of superlativity. The green is the heart of a lightly dressed lettuce, buttery mashed potatoes on the right. I am guessing the pigs feet are boiled for about 3 hours, boned, diced, chilled then fried…so not smoky. Exactly how all this is done, I would love to know.. Dare I refer you to my head cheese post ... more >
FrostBites there is clearly some humor involved. Lighten up.
That’s the superlativist review I’ve ever read. Can you say more about the preparations? It sounds grilled. Was it smoky? And what is there on the side? Looks like braised lettuce or endive and mustard or something.
I’ll be in Paris for the quatorze juillet—any other places/meals I should try?
Beautifully written