CHEF'S DAY OFF: S.O.S. -- CARMELIZED ONION TART FOR 700
About 20 years ago, in Washington D.C. a bother and sister decided that they wanted to do something about hunger in the world. They wanted to start an organization that would enlist the help of chefs and winemakers in their drive to end hunger. They wanted to create an event where 100 percent of the proceeds would go toward the cause -- instead of just a portion, as is the case with so many other charity events. I am always so fascinated by regular people who decide to change the world, then actually do it. The siblings started 'Share Our Strength', which has grown into an amazing organization that has truly helped change the world for the better.
For the last 20 years, John and I have been happy to help S.O.S. when asked, mostly because we are concerned about this growing global problem, but also because it's a great opportunity to socialize with other chefs. Most of us are so busy, we hardly ever see each other except at these functions. You know it’s a great event when you can see some old friends and help to wipe out hunger.
People who work in the hospitality industry really know how to put on a good party, so needless to say, I had a bit of a headache the day after the event. Who wouldn’t after tasting wine, beer, bourbon, tequila, guava martinis, and maybe a bit more wine? And I haven’t even mentioned the food.
After some 20 years of doing this event, John and I have learned not to overdo it when it comes to our dish. When you are cooking for 600-700 people, you really don’t want to get in the weeds. And actually cooking in a space that is about 2x6 is a bit hard -- but still some chefs do it! Our neighbor in the booth next to us was Marco from a local Italian restaurant. He prepared a nettle gnocchi and cooked his gnocchi to order. Crazy. Because we don’t have the most ideal set up for cooking, and I think I'm not quite as crazy as Marco, we decide to do a dish that was served at room temperature.
Marco
This year our dish was a caramelized onion tart with a watercress salad tossed with our housemade bacon and Dijon dressing. Simple! All we had to do was make 7 full size sheet pans of crust, cut and caramelize 40 pounds of onions, make 3 gallons of custard, wash and trim 2 dozen bunches of watercress, dice and crisp up 10 pounds of our bacon and make 2 gallons of dressing.
John making the dressing
Then we had to cut the 700 pieces of tart. Can you imagine if we made our dish complex?
We dished up a lot of tart that night -- trays and trays of onion tart, bowls and bowls of watercress salad. Do you know how many times we had to repeat, "we are serving a caramelized onion tart with a watercress salad tossed with our housemade bacon and Dijon dressing"?
The amount of great food at this event is mind-boggling. We're talking about 100 of the best restaurants in the Portland area. There were ribs, honey foie gras toast, braised pork shoulder with zucchini pickles, cured meats, hand formed tortillas with carnitas, pastrami sandwiches, seared tuna, cupcakes, truffles, granite, and on and on. And do people load up -- you can’t believe the plates that go by.
plate of food
It's sometimes disconcerting to watch people go by with giant plates of food at an event that is fighting hunger. But what’s really important is the money that’s raised; each city keeps the majority of the money they raise right there, then some goes to the national cause, and a smaller amount still goes to fight international hunger. S.O.S. is an amazing organization that I am really proud to have worked with over the last two decades.
more food
Here is the recipe for our tart and salad. When you caramelize the onions make sure you don’t rush it, you want them golden brown not burnt. We used the bacon we make at the Bistro but you can use good quality store bought bacon.
Caramelized Onion Tart
Serves 12
Crust
2 cups flour
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup unsalted butter, diced
Filling
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 medium onions, julienne
1 cup dry sherry
1 1/4 cups half and half
3 eggs
2 teaspoons finely chopped sage
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup goat cheese
To prepare the crust, place the flour, garlic, pepper and salt in the bowl
of a food processor. With the machine running slowly add the butter through
the feed tube. Process until the dough forms on top of the bowl. Press
into a 10 inch flan pan with a removable bottom. Place in the oven and cook
about 10 minutes just until the crust is set. Remove from the oven and
allow to cool while you prepare the filling.
To prepare the filling, heat a pan over medium heat, add the olive oil and
the sliced onions and allow to cook about 10 minutes before stirring. Then let
the onions continue to cook slowly over medium heat, stirring about every 5
minutes or so until golden brown. Add the sherry and cook until just about
dry, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool until tepid. While
the onions are cooling, prepare the custard. Place the half and half in a
bowl and add the eggs, sage and salt and mix well. Dust the bottom of the
cooled crust with the goat cheese. Top with the onions and then pour the
prepared custard over the onions. Reduce the heat in the oven to 350
degrees and cook the tart about 30 minutes or just until the custard is set.
Let cool about 20 minutes slice and serve warm with watercress salad.
Dijon Dressing with Crispy Bacon
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 small shallot, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 slices good quality bacon, diced
salt and black pepper
2 bunches watercress, washed and spun dry
Combine the vinegar, shallots, garlic, and mustard in a bowl and whisk until smooth. While whisking slowly add the oil and whisk until smooth. Heat a medium sauté pan and add the diced bacon. Cook until crispy then add the fat and crispy bacon to the dressing. Season well with salt and black pepper.
To finish the salad, place the watercress in a large bowl, add enough of the dressing to the greens just to coat and toss well. Top the slices of tart with the watercress salad.



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