CHEF'S DAY OFF: RHUBARB PIE
The calendar may say we're well into Spring, but here in Portland it’s anything but Spring. Every morning I drag myself out of bed, dreaming of sunshine and blue skies, just to look out the window and see the same gray, dreary sky. It has been so wet and cold here that it's a bit depressing. And after months of designing winter menus with parsnips, brussel sprouts, and root vegetables, I just want to cook with something else! I'm so ready for a new season of produce, but it just seems so slow in coming this year.
Then the other day, while I was grocery shopping, I saw a bright spot of red out of the corner of my eye that gave me hope. Rhubarb, beautiful red stalks of spring, it was like a light at the end of the winter tunnel. I knew right away what I wanted to make with this wonderful jewel. A pie! A gorgeous, flaky, warm pie, piled high with ice cream.
rhubarb
The crust on a pie is so important. It surrounds the filling, and if your crust is not tender and flaky the whole pie will suffer. After years of making piecrusts I have finally settled on a recipe that uses both butter and shortening. You get the flavor from the butter and you get the flaky from the shortening. Some day soon I am going to try a crust with some homemade lard and I will let you know how it turns out. Many recipes have you mix the flour and fat until you have pea size pieces, but when I mix the flour and fat with my fingers the dough never looks like peas. What it really ends up looking like is a mess. I really just want it to look like a coarse meal -- little pieces and bigger pieces -- nothing super uniform.
dough looking like a coarse meal
When I make my crust I add the water stirring just enough to moisten the flour. Stirring too much will give you a tough dough because you begin to form gluten. Gluten is what gives bread its crust and chew, but with a pie dough I want tender and flaky. I want the dough to be moist because if it’s too dry then it’s hard to roll out and get into the pie plate without cracking. When the dough is moist enough I dump it on my board and wrap it in plastic. Then I let it rest in the refrigerator for 15-30 minutes.
dough on board, ready to be wrapped
While the dough is resting I cut the rhubarb and mix the filling. I keep the filling simple so the rhubarb flavor can shine through. Sugar, vanilla, orange zest, flour and that’s about it.
Once the dough is rested I lightly dust my board and start to roll the dough. After a couple of rolls I pick the dough up and turn it a couple of degrees. That way I know that the dough will come off the board later. It also helps to keep the dough even while I'm rolling it out.
I roll my dough about 1 inch bigger than the pie plate that I am using. I fold it into quarters and lay it in my waiting plate.

Then I remix my filling and place it in waiting dough. Then roll the top dough out and place it on top of the filling.
Now I flute my pie crust just like my Mom taught me so many years ago. I roll the dough under and create a ridge, then use my fingers to flute the dough.
I cut a few slits in the top of the dough to allow the steam to escape. I brush a little bit of milk or half and half and the sprinkle the crust with cinnamon sugar over the top.
I bake my pie at 375 degrees convection for 15 minutes and then I lower the heat to 350 degrees to finish cooking the pie which usually takes about another 45 minutes, until it’s bubbling and golden brown. Let the pie cool about 20-30 minutes then serve it warm with vanilla ice cream. (It is really best warm with ice cream, but it sure is good the next morning as breakfast.)
Cappy’s Pie Crust
Makes enough for a dough crust pie
2 2/3 cups flour
1/2 cup non-hydrogenated shortening
1/2 cup unsalted butter, diced
1/2 teaspoon salt
cold water about 3/4 cup
Place the flour, shortening, butter, and salt in a bowl. With your fingers mix the flour and fat until you have a coarse meal. With a dinner fork slowly add the water and gently mix. Add just enough water to moisten the dough. Do not over mix! Dump on your board and wrap in plastic and let rest in the refrigerator about 15-30 minutes. Cut the dough in half. Roll on a well-floured board to desired size.
Rhubarb Pie
Enough filling for one pie
7 cups diced rhubarb
1 1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
zest 1 orange
1/4 milk or half and half
1/4 sugar mixed with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pre-heat oven 375 degrees convection bake
Place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well. Place in the waiting dough and top with the crust and flute. Brush with milk or half and half and dust with cinnamon sugar. Place the pie on a sheet pan and bake in the oven 15 minutes. Lower the heat to 350 degrees standard bake and cook about another 45 minutes until golden brown and bubbling. Remove from the oven and cool about 15 minutes before slices. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.



Comments (3)
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Pie puts a smile on my face…........ahhhhhh! M.
Please come to LA and cook for us a little bit! Pretty please?
Thanks for the recipe…walking around Portland, I’m amazed at how many people are actually growing Ruhbarb and in their front yards no less (hey, it’s a Sellwood thing). Now we know what to make of it. Thanks!