MEN WHO LIKE TO COOK: Where to Go, What to Do in London and Paris
by DAVID LATT
A good friend in Paris saw my post asking for suggestions about travel
to London and Paris. Randa warned me, "Your request was very brave. You
will be swamped with millions of great ideas, and you only have TWO
DAYS!!!"
The last time I was in either city was more than 30
years ago. I spent a week in London, a few days in Paris, and four days
in Madrid. In Paris I visited Fran, my ex-wife, who had fled the
"dullness" of America for the excitement of Paris. Her year in Paris
was incredibly productive. She directed a documentary on Salvador Dali,
wrote a screenplay, and had the best time of her life. For that trip,
the plan was I would see London on my own and she would be my guide in
Paris. I don't remember the time I spent in London but what I did in
Paris is still vivid to me because I saw Paris through her eyes.
Which
is why I am grateful that so many of you sent your recommendations
about where to go and what to do in London and Paris. Instead of
bringing a generic guide book, having those suggestions is like taking
a personal scrapbook with me. I'm looking forward to the trip even more
than before. There's so much to see and do, I want to go back and I
haven't even been there yet.
I'm posting the ones I've gotten so
far. I hope you'll continue to send more. I'll update these lists as
more suggestions come in. We'll create our own Guide Book to London and
Paris!
About London:
From
Susan, "In London there are things I love but hardly unknown things. I
love the Covent Garden Hotel. The only danger is that you run into
every Hollywood agent you don't want to see. Just across the road, in a
tiny and famous courtyard, is Neal's Yard Cheese which you of all
people absolutely must go to if you never have. It's heaven. Cheese is
a religion there, and it's still a tiny old-fashioned shop. Other
obvious things: the Tate Modern, which really is amazing, and
specifically the walk from St. Paul's to the Tate across the foot
bridge. I just love walking in London basically. Also walking from the
Tate to the new Globe. I've never seen a performance there, but just
touirng the building is wonderful (for me, anyway).
A somewhat
underrated place I think is the Museum of London in the dreadful
Barbican. I find that kind of history fascinating. Oh, and the new
British Library which has been so derided as bad architecture I think
is not that bad at all, and the exhibition room takes your breath away:
the actual real Beowulf, Jane Austen's writing desk, the only known
recording of Virginia Woolf's voice, first folio Shakespeares etc. etc.
I
don't think this is much help, cause I don't have any secrets to offer,
but I sure as hell wish I were going. Have tremendous fun."
From
Melissa who lived in London with her family for a year, "Some
suggestions: I assume you know about the Borough Market. If not, it's
open Th-Sat, but Fri (from noon) & Sat (open @ 9?) are the best
days.
From Tom a memory from his semester in London when he was a starving law student, "You have to go to a chain called Wagamama. They're everywhere. I ate at Wagamama almost every single day because it was affordable and delicious. Total comfort food. And the Food Court at Harrod's. It's out of control. You could eat every meal there. Relatively sensible meals at affordable prices."
From my Rhode Island friend Hank ,
"London is it?...Hmm, I'd suggest an afternoon visit to the Tate Modern and an early dinner at the River Cafe...
The Tate resides in a converted power station and houses, as the name suggests, a rather extensive collection of "modern" art. It's a hoot and the crowd is youthful, lively and oh, so interested....a fun afternoon.
The River Cafe is all it's cracked up to be....That is a hip, timely, expensive and the place to see and of course eat. It's busy and buzzing with all those who count and is operated by a couple of woman proprietors who take food, cooking and consuming very seriously. I like these "serious cookin'" places and these gals do a bang-up job.
Oh, and if time allows, you might zip out to Kew Gardens, a very interesting horticultural gem not more than 20 minutes by tube from most parts of London. The green house dates from the mid 19th century and houses a world class collection of tropical flora (this place is something like 300 feet long and 3 stories tall-incredible). The grounds (many, many acres) are home to huge collections of....everything that you need to see that grows in the earth and can survive at Kew.....
And the only thing I can recommend for Paris (been too long to remember much) is a mass at Notre Dame...breath taking.
Rock on Mister Latt....lucky you!!!!"
Hank's recommendation of The River Cafe was seconded by Chris, "You have to go to River Cafe--it's a ride out to West London, but it is the epitome of local, seasonal, sustainable 'let the ingredients speak' cooking in the UK."
Sibyl remembered both London and Paris, "How fun that you’re taking a trip to London and Paris. Back when I was married my ex and I spent our first anniversary having dinner at the Savoy in London. It was one of the best meals I’ve had, and the atmosphere was incredibly romantic and classy. The Kirov ballet company was at the next table. So that’s the only thing I’d recommend in London.
I was in Paris last summer with my kids and we stayed in the Latin Quarter where there’s a bakery called Keyser (I think it’s spelled that way and named after Eric Keyser, the owner) that we went to every day. It was amazing. Always a line that moved very quickly. Try anything they make with pistachios.
Have fun!!!"
About Paris:
From Ned,
"About
five years ago Helena and I were taken by a friend to an astounding
dinner at L'Arpege, Paris. Still dreaming about it. Their strange
website: http//www.alain-passard.com/fr/
An accurate review:
http://andichahyadihermawan.blogs.friendster.com/zhang_yuqi/2006/09/dner_larpge_par.html
Valerie
remembers a seriously wonderful cook store called E. Dehillerin (18 rue
Coquillière, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-36-53-13). That made me curious
about other cookware and cookbook stores in Paris. Online I found
Clotilde Dusoulier's 2005 comprehensive survey, "My Paris is Better
Than Yours," from MSNBC (http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/7634215/page/2/
and the full article with other foodie-recommendations:
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/7634215/page/2/print/1/displaymode/1098/)
and Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel.
From Marii a recommendation for a restaurant she still thinks about,
"Fogon."
From
Maria Elena who lived and cooked in Paris and so has a great intimacy
with all things food in France, "Two of my favorites when I would house
sit for my friends Brad and Em, were near their old apartment in the
15th arrondissement: Le Florimond, 19 ave de la Motte-Picquet (at rue
Bougainville) 7th arr, metro: Ecole Militaire--great basic French food,
wine (says my sister) and the most polite owner around--he greeted,
served, and apparently did a lot of the cooking; phone: 01-45-55-40-28.
L'Os
a Moelle, 3 rue Vasco da Gama, 15th arr (at rue de Lourmel), phone:
01-95-57-27-27. You need to make a reservation ASAP for this. One fixed
price menu for the night, 3 courses, great wine. The 2 sittings are
always packed. Last time I was there we had raie (skate fish) in a
sauce, pork chop with potato puree, and a chocolate dessert with
saffron."
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David
lived in Paris years ago and even though he hasn't been back recently,
he's never forgotten what he loved, "Here are the tourist things worth
doing including FLEA MARKETS, take a night cruise on a bateau mouche on
the Seine… do not eat dinner… do drink something… Paris lit from the
river is beautiful.
Two of my favorite restaurants in the day
were Brasserie Le Balzar and the informal patio restaurant at La
Closerie de Lilas; I used to get the choucroute at Le Balzar and the
steak tartar was great at La Clos; Place des Vosges; Rodin museum;
Louvre & Musee D’Orsay; Eiffel Tower; Musee Pompidou and
surrounding Beaubourg neighborhood; Ile St Louis with a visit to
Bertillon for ice cream; Old Jewish quarter, from there walk to the
Picasso museum."
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