STEPHEN LYLE

Mark Buzzio of Salumeria Biellese, New York City, at left

I’ve been buying cured meat and sausage from Mark for at least 20 years. His father started the business on 8th Ave and 29th Street in the 1920’s, and local workers still belly up to the deli counter for cold cut sandwiches and lasagna from the steam table. Little do they know that the grinders and stuffers of the self-styled “Sausage Maker to the Stars” are just below their feet.

Bresaola is one of Mark’s signature products. Dried beef is made throughout the Alps, and Mark’s family is from the Val d’Aosta, the valley that leads up to the St. Bernhard Pass, so this is something he knows about. A piece of top round of beef is seasoned with salt pepper and wine, and stuffed into a large casing. Then it goes into a small, magical hanging room where it is “infected” (in Mark’s words - I suggested impregnated) with the right micro-organisms, in this case the same yeast that makes yogurt. The microorganisms live in the air and on the walls of the room, that is kept somewhat warm and a tad humid for this 5 day, fermentation-inducing stage. Then they go into a larger, airier room and cure for 4-5 months. The result is a soft, elegantly flavored slice of divine funk heaven.

I don’t know why it isn’t more popular, but Mark is tripling his production capacity so look for it soon at Whole Foods. Sausage giant Citerrio makes an edible version, but I strongly recommend you ask Mark to ship you one of his. Then go buy a electric meat slicer, which really every house should have. Serve it sliced thin with raw fennel, arugula, olive oil lemon and shaved parmesan. Yup.

www.salumeria biellese .com