With Halloween just around the corner and Thanksgiving sneaking up faster than I anticipated I'm trying really really hard to eat well these next few weeks - which means I'll have to resort to memories of meals gone by. This one was particularly memorable as it came sandwiched between two awesome weekends and I'd been hearing about the restaurant for so long. If you get a chance to go to Florence in the near future, or ever, definitely make reservations at La Giostra. Here it is:
The next destination on my Eurotrip was Corfu, Greece and in my personal opinion the best way to start a beach vacation is with a gigantic, ammmazing Italian meal. The whole week was a blast to say the least and started off with a night in
Florence that consisted of nothing other than the best meal I've ever
had in my entire life. Becca and Rachel met us at the Duomo, straight
off the train, luggage still in hand and we made a B-line to dinner.
The place was La Giostra - a name which already echoed in my mind after
having heard it so many times referred to as "the best restaurant ever"
or "the best restaurant in Italy" or "the best restaurant in the
world." Rachel and Adam chalked it up to be an experience of a lifetime,
so Hallie and I decided it would have to be one of two things: this
could either be the absolute BEST meal of our lives or the absolute
WORST, most overrated meal of our lives. But we were blessed by the
eating gods as the meal turned out to be an elevating experience which raised the bar for all meals to come. Okay, enough
already - the food.
La Giostra is famous for its pear ravioli, balsamic steak and star quality service. The restaurant itself is separated into
two buildings - one with the kitchen and a smaller dining room and the
other a larger, roomier dining area. Both rooms are dark and lit romantically with delicate Italian lights. The brick walls are lined with photos of celebrities eating at the restaurant, little
pieces of abstract modern art, and a few newspaper articles featuring rave reviews of the restaurant. The wooden tables are draped with eggshell table cloths and set with crisp
white plates, sparkly silverware, wine, water and champagne glasses. One or two candles on each table set the mood in side the restaurant as calm and chic but also cutting edge and updated. What better way to enjoy fabulous food
in a great venue than with three of your best girlfriends?
I
didn't even have to consult the menu to know what I was going to order
- I came here as a girl on a mission and I was not about to divert from
my plan. Hallie, Bex, and I all ordered the pear ravioli, Hallie and I
each ordered our own balsamic steaks, and Rach ordered a tomato and
eggplant fusili and a steak to split with Bex. As the waiter took our orders he poured champagne into our glasses and we toasted to our last
time in Florence all together after a semester of amazing visits and
incredible memories. Without
skipping a beat a huge plate of antipasti arrived at our table and I'm
pretty sure my eyes did one of those cartoonish things where they pop
out of your head and then slap back in making a sort of "Arooooga!"
noise. The plate was decked out into sections of appetizers with one for each of us so there wouldn't have to be any hair-pulling for bites. The first taste I tackled was a tiny caprese made up of little
slices of tomato each with its own ball of fresh mozzarella sitting
delicately on top. I've had lots of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes in
Italy, and maybe it's cause I was really hungry or really buying into
the pizzazz of the restaurant, but I believe this to have been the best
combination of the two yet. The tomato was perfectly ripe, slightly
sweet and soft, but not at all mealy or flimsy. And the mozzarella was
creamy and smooth - a light buoyancy paired perfectly with the acidity of the tomato. Next was a sort of
fried ricotta cheese and spinach dumpling. It was dry and a
little chewy and kind of reminded me of falafel, but it was salty and
delicious - like an elegant take on bar food. Then there were stuffed
green bell peppers which were sauteed so that they were just soft
enough to take the crunch out but not so soft that they lose their
shape. Inside was a sort of tomato, cheese paste that was also salty
but kind of sweet and went together splendidly with the fresh green
taste of the pepper. Next there were small crostinis - one with
bruschetta and the other with chopped liver. I loved the bruschetta
because it was fresh and light and uplifting with a little zing from
the tomatoes and balsamic vinegar, but I am just not a fan of the
chopped liver. It's not my thing. As if that wasn't a meal enough already, there were still marinated vegetables: roasted red peppers that radiated smokiness and
seduction - they're slick and sexy, bright red and smooth; raw
eggplant marinated in vinegar that makes your lips pucker at first but
then the buttery, rich taste of the vegetable slides down with ease; and celery root in a light mustardy, mayo-y sauce that made them
tangy, with a little bite and a tiny pinch that makes you savor them
slowly. I could have stopped eating after the champagne and antipasti.
It was a sensational plate of interesting flavors paired creatively to
make one bite after the other a delight. If these were just the
appetizers, how amazing would the meal be?
Amazing.
Out came 6 large ravioli in a shallow white bowl that looked like the
backs of sleeping puppies. Instead of flat, thin squares, these were
big, round, dumplings of homemade noodles and filling. I was expecting
the pear ravioli to taste like pears but instead it was a light, layered,
smooth taste. Cheesy, but not overwhelmingly, at first it tastes
simple and then sort of explodes into a depth of flavor that leaves you
thinking "What ingredient made that ravioli so unique?" Pear. Pear
did that. You have to eat them slowly, to savor the flavors and to let
the pear undertones come out. If you eat too fast, you'll miss it.
Also, they're big so eating too fast means getting full too fast which
means you can't as easily appreciate the perfectly al dente noodles and
the smooth, creamy filling. And if you're too full then you'll miss
what comes next.
The Balsamic Steak. After
I said goodbye to my licked-clean bowl out came a plate, fit for a king - or queen in this case, robust and proud in all its
glory. The steak sits in the middle of the wide white platter,
doused in a rich, tangy balsamic glaze. At each corner of the dish are a few bites of a side: small quadrants of zucchini in a tomato sauce,
sliced roasted potatoes, fresh purple radicchio, and finally these long
orange chewy sweet things that are either roasted carrots, sweet
potatoes, or some dried fruit. I can't figure it out but I would have
ordered a plate of just them if I could have. As for the steak itself
- it was cooked perfectly medium rare, slightly pink in the middle so
that it still held up its steaky flavor against the intensity of the
balsamic glaze. The glaze was a powerful "Ping!" of flavor - tangy and
spicy, warm and sweet all at once. The steak was big, but not so big
that you get "steak mouth" after a few bites where you get so full and
tired of chewing that you just sort of relax your jaw and let it sit in
your mouth for a few deep breaths through your nose. None of that.
This steak was more elegant, less country - meant for small bites at
steady intervals, interrupted only by a slow sip of red wine.
After
each savored bite of the first three courses, plus the decadence of champagne and wine we
just had to order dessert. Mixed berries with vanilla gelato, a
caramel drizzle, and a little caramelized sugar ended the meal as a soft, sweet,
pick-me-up especially paired with the rich, dense piece of
chocolate cake we ordered. By this point we were wonderfully stuffed with bite upon
bite of extraordinary cuisine, now fully prepared to spend the next
five days in teeny bikinis.
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